An eye-watering seven million square kilometres, the Amazon River Basin covers around 40 per cent of South America and crosses eight countries.

Home to the world’s largest rainforest, it teems with up to three thousand fish species including piranhas. Its unique ecosystem is also home to an astonishing variety of reptiles, birds, mammals, and animals such as pink river dolphins and electric eels.

Our Lifestyle and Leisure Editor, Sharon Cain, and series photographer, Steve Hare, doused themselves with mosquito repellent, parked their phobias of spiders and snakes - and ventured into the heart of the Upper Peruvian Amazon.

Iquitos – Jungle Gateway

A short two-hour flight from Peru’s capital Lima took us to the bustling port of Iquitos, the world’s largest city that cannot be reached by road.

Completely landlocked by dense rainforest and winding tributaries, the chaotic capital of the Peruvian Amazon built during the late 19th century rubber boom, is the jungle's entry point.

A cultural mix of Brazilians, Columbians and Chinese, the architecture is a fusion of colonial houses and Peruvian civil architecture – the most famous, La Casa de Fierro (the Iron House), was reputedly the work of legendary French architect, Gustave Eiffel.

Walking from the centre to the river was a key test of how ‘lively’ the natives were - and if our mosquito repellent clothes were as fit for purpose as their labels purported. The trip was taking place in the high-water season (December - May), resulting in more rain and even more mosquitos thriving in the dense vegetation. Thankfully our garments withstood the test.

Feeling ill just hours after landing from something seemingly innocuous I had eaten, I had purchased an unreadable, unpronounceable packet of tablets in a tatty cardboard box from a ‘chemist’. Erring on the side of caution, I opted to wait until we embarked on our riverboat, which travels with medical staff, to check them out.

Iquitos is heavily reliant on river transport, so spotting a traditional car is a rare occurrence. Principal modes of getting around are noisy motorcycles and auto-rickshaws, and traffic jams are a frequent occurrence. With our hotel located on the main square, it was safer and quicker to explore on foot.

Extraordinary From Start to Finish

The real adventure began on a 59-mile minibus journey through jungle terrain to board the stunning Delfín III riverboat operated by Delfín Amazon Cruises.

With 22 suites accommodating up to 44 guests (we set off with just 28 passengers), a spacious restaurant, bar, gym and sundeck pool, it was a dream vessel. The cuisine and conviviality during dinner was a perfect opportunity to meet fellow guests, who hailed primarily from the UK and the US.

The sunset, which transformed from deep pink hues into an orange blaze, made me tingle with excitement as we sailed into the Upper Peruvian Amazon. I kept wondering what lay ahead as I set my phone to the unearthly hour of 5.30am for our first expedition.

Navigating Narrow Tributaries And Flooded Forests

Every excursion was dopamine-fuelled as we ventured through the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. Covering over five million acres, it is the planet's largest protected flooded forest where seasons are dictated by river conditions and rainfall. Locals call it ‘the Jungle of Mirrors’ due to reflections from dark vegetation and tannins in the water creating a mirror effect.

Motorised skiffs carrying eight-passengers navigated us through narrow tributaries and flooded forests. Our guides, most of whom grew up in the rainforest, were a mine of information and great fun. There was also a paramedic on board every trip.

Wildlife Paradise

The reserve is abundantly rich in wild flora and fauna, aquatic life, birdlife, mammals, reptiles, amphibians, fish, and wild and cultivated plant species. It is also a guardian of threatened and endangered species including river wolves which I sadly didn’t see, and pink dolphins which I spotted fleetingly.

Observing the antics of monkeys of which there are thirteen species, there was a stark contrast between the large, slow-moving, woolly monkeys and the significantly smaller, more agile and animated squirrel monkeys who were having the time of their lives.

Becoming more attuned to the environment and its natives, I loved the mild-mannered, two-tone Caiman Lizards and the sloths' survival mechanism of hanging out in trees to avoid ground predators. The Amazon river turtles, who help to balance the river’s ecosystems by consuming aquatic plants, seeds, and fruits were adorable and the anaconda - which can weigh in at over 550 pounds, terrifying.

All Creatures Great And Small

The jungle’s constant hive or activity encompasses the large and the tiny, the latter which includes the Square-spotted Dasher Dragonfly – an adaptable, vivid blue hunter constantly on guard in the water for flying insects.

Among the smaller gems are Nancy Ma’s night monkey. Strictly nocturnal and extremely sociable, they are just over a foot long, weigh less than two pounds, with distinctive large brown eyes.

At just seven millimetres, the Brazilian flea toad, who relishes the damp of the southwestern Amazon basin covering Peru, is the smallest creature in the rainforest and across the globe.

Close Encounters: World’s Largest Spider

Several of Peru’s 30 species of tarantulas live here. A jungle walk saw us up close and personal with a menacing-looking Goliath bird-eating tarantula, the planet’s biggest spider by mass whose body can be over five inches long with legs up to twelve inches.

I kept my distance as the more intrepid of our group relished placing the tarantula on each other’s arms (thankfully they wore jackets) for photographs. While a bite from one would not be fatal, I wasn’t hanging around long enough to find out.

Insights Into Local Villages

The reserve is home to 120,000 people in close-knit communities and villages who earn a living through subsistence farming, hunting, fishing, and producing crafts.

Many travel operators support them through sustainable tourism initiatives. Delfin's ‘Helping Hands’ programme provides key resources such as water filtration systems, boat engines, and annual school supplies to around 15 villages. Its paramedics also take medicine and healthcare instructions to locals.

I was humbled and inspired by our visit to a native community where the villagers warmly welcomed us and were proud to show us their local school. A group of wide-eyed, cheeky children sang to us, and we were treated to a weaving demonstration.

Devoid of the trappings of consumerism and commerciality, their life is simple and it was refreshing to be among people who have so little and are so happy. I bought home fabulous local crafts of miniature monkeys, birds, and pink dolphins which sustain my precious connection with the rainforest’s special dwellers.

Fishing For Piranha

A raft of activities included ‘catch-and-release’ fishing for piranha - renowned for being aggressive predators with razor-sharp teeth up to 14 inches long.

Hunted by humans, wading birds, large fish and dolphins, piranhas ambush their targets - primarily fellow fish, crustaceans and worms - from the water’s edge.

Our fishing expedition was an absolute hoot as Steve hooked a bite-size piranha to the amusement of our guide and group before freeing it back into the black water.

Oasis of Water Lilies

A highlight redolent of something out of a fairy tale saw our skiff gliding through an abundance of Giant Amazon water lilies, (Victoria Amazonica) whose gargantuan circular leaves can reach almost ten foot in diameter.

Their vibrant green chimed with their lush setting, and, while they had no passengers on board that particular day, their buoyancy capabilities enable them to carry small animals including baby caimans, lizards, and wading birds. I had last seen them in Kew Gardens and was thrilled to experience their beauty in their native environment.

Symphonies And Serenades: Amazonian Birdlife

The morning birdsong on was out of this world, and enthusiasts will be in their seventh heaven with over 400 species which include migrating birds.

While living close to a nature reserve in Northumberland has piqued my interest in our feathered friends, nothing can compare with the spectacular colours of their Amazon counterparts. My favourites were the Macaws with their striking plumage - and whose screams can exceed one hundred decibels.

Ariana, a fellow passenger and avid birder, spotted stunning featured creatures before the guides, further enriching the experience with her wealth of knowledge. I enjoy staying in touch with her through Instagram where her posts of sightings in exotic climes brighten the dullest winter days.

All sense of time and place melted way and I treasured every precious moment as mother nature’s guest in her awe-inspiring and enduring rain forest which has remained unspoilt and untouched for one hundred million years.

TRAVEL FACTS

The Peruvian Amazon rainy season is May- September, the dry season is November to April
KLM flies direct from London Heathrow to Lima, flight time is 13 hours
Delphin Amazon Cruises
Peru Travel
Sharon and Steve’s Amazon adventure was part of an extended tour of South America which included Buenos Aires, Machu Picchu, and Ushuaia, The End of The World.