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date/time
Mon, 12:00AM
light rain
7.1°C
SSE 7mph
light rain
7.1°C
SSE 7mph
 | Sunrise | 7:44AM |
| Sunset | 4:57PM |  |
Nathan Lane
Wine Correspondent
P.ublished 7th February 2026
lifestyle
Barossa Bargain And A South African Stunner To Warm The Bones
Old Kapunda Road Shiraz Cabernet 2024
It’s Barossa doing what Barossa has always done best: generous fruit, a sense of warmth, and not a shred of self-consciousness about it. On the nose, it is immediately inviting. Plums come first, ripe and slightly squidgy, followed by a handful of dried herbs, the sort you rub between your palms before throwing into a stew. It speaks up, clearly and confidently.
On the palate, the Shiraz takes the lead with blackberry and cassis, dark, glossy fruit that edges towards the jammy without tipping into excess. The Cabernet does the sensible work in the background, bringing structure, a bit of grip, and enough backbone to stop things from collapsing into alcoholic fruit soup. There is a light touch of oak, more cedar than vanilla, and a peppery finish that lingers just long enough to make you reach for another sip.
This is not a wine for contemplation or quiet reverence. It is a wine for roast beef, for steak and kidney pie, for a Tuesday night when you want something dependable and comforting. It is immediately drinkable and honest about what it is. At £12, it feels like a throwback to a time when supermarkets still quietly championed value rather than shouting about it. A proper, old-fashioned bargain.
This is a Mediterranean blend in South African clothing, Mourvèdre at its core, with Shiraz and Grenache playing supporting roles. The idea is simple, almost old-school: the whole should be greater than the sum of its parts. Deep in colour, it smells of dark fruit and savoury richness. Blackberry and plum are there, but so too are rosemary, smoke, and an earthiness.
On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, but never over the top. The Mourvèdre brings an earthy seriousness and a slight bitterness that keep the wine honest. Grenache lifts the fruit, adding a red-fruited brightness, while Shiraz contributes spice and warmth. There are notes of roasted mushrooms, cracked pepper, and a suggestion of smoke from the 18 months in second-fill French oak, which wisely avoids smothering the fruit.
The tannins are present but well behaved, firm enough to demand food, supple enough not to bully it. This is a wine that respects the table. With beef, lamb, or anything slow-cooked and unapologetically rich, it makes complete sense.
At over £50, it asks for commitment, but it delivers depth, balance, and a slightly rustic charm that feels increasingly rare. This is not a fashionable wine. It is serious, thoughtful, and built to last. In the cold, it tasted even better.
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