My faith has been restored!

Recently, I have been disappointed on trips to some eating establishments in Harrogate and its environs. Chefs not understanding how the sugar content of potatoes affects the cooking process leading to badly cooked chips - triple or otherwise, members of waiting teams not being trained in the basics of customer service and food quality being below par.

That was all forgotten when I turned up at Three’s A Crowd (TAC) last Saturday to celebrate its fourth anniversary since it opened its doors in the spa town.

Anyone who remembers the old Muckles Pub is in for a delightful surprise. Owner John Quinlan and his team has turned Muckles into a popular gastro pub with all the ingredients for a satisfying experience.

Whether meeting up with friends for a long Saturday lunch, heading out for dinner or looking for somewhere for that family celebratory event, the light and airy, relaxed venue overlooking the Stray would make an ideal choice.

With a good range of beers, excellent wine list and a lovely menu it is a ideal place to nestle down on whatever day of the week and enjoy the ambience.


There is an open area to sit and unwind with friends if you just fancy a drink, although if you enter a wee bit peckish, my guess is you will inevitably end up dining after eyeing up the plates of food on their way out to tables.

Watching the different people entering I was pleased to see that the welcome my companion and I received was replicated.

The lunch menu caters for the bigger and smaller plates all reasonably priced from a 42 Day Dry Aged Flat Iron steak with balsamic cherry tomatoes (£24) to a special TAC Caesar Salad (£12) with the possibility of adding chicken (£5) or prawn (£6) to a spring pea ravioli - butter & lemon velouté, Grana Padano, chive and mint oil. A classic fish and chips (£17.50) and corn-fed chicken satay (£18) with rice noodles, pickled carrot & cucumber chilli and lime dressing plus coriander compete on the bigger plates list.

Tantalising the taste buds for smaller dishes include native oysters (£3.50 each) served with mignonette & Tabasco, Harissa spiced hummus (£7), TAC Korean fried chicken (£8) with Gochujang, spring onion & sesame, Jerk chicken wings (£10) with Baja pepper sauce and cod cheek sliders (£10) with Dill Mayo as well as a TAC satay cauliflower (£7) with peanut sauce spring onions and sesame.

The sides are also enticing from a heritage carrot salad, mint, and citron dressing with roasted pistachio (£5) and Espelette parmesan and truffle fries (£5).

As we were waiting a bottle of the Portuguese Janella’s Antigas Grande Escolha 2021 Vinho Verde was ordered. It was certainly a quaffable wine and one that accompanied food very well.

Impressively, our server asked us if we would like her to pour during the meal or leave it to ourselves. A huge tick for that observation and shows attention to customer care.

Despite choosing a white wine we opted for one of the specials: the Hereford Chateaubriand (£85) a 600g fillet steak, triple cooked chips, 12 hour roasted tomatoes, peppercorn sauce, garlic, and thyme butter.

Shortly after ordering some delicious bread with oil and fresh, daintily salty olives sourced from Wellocks, arrived.

Just before the main course arrived the sun came out and lit up the restaurant prompting diners to go outside for a postprandial served attentively by the bar team.

It might seem a high price but the quality of the beef, sourced from Wetherby-based Sykes, was perfection. The beef cooked medium/rare melted in the mouth, the sauce not overpowering, just enough taste to complement the excellently cooked beef. The onions thinly sliced also were a subtle and excellent accompaniment. Certainly, as in all good restaurants no condiments were needed. There was a sweet piquancy and a buttery texture which made this a memorable meal and one that was not over-facing, meaning there was room for a desert.

I need not have worried the thick triple cooked chips they were superb - the best I have had in Harrogate, slightly seasoned with sea salt.

Our observant and thoughtful server suggested there was room for the treacle tart with vanilla ice cream, (£9) an “excellent recommendation” and I opted for the Yuzu Posset with lemon shortbread. Both were sensible portion sizes and again, subtle flavourings and lovely presentation. The treacle tart came with a crisp pastry and just enough warmth to make it easy to eat without it being to sticky. The vegan friendly ice cream sourced from Judes of Winchester. The posset was light, enhanced by a raspberry coulis and a lovely lemony shortbread.


John Quinlan has commented on the success of the concept: “Our success and reputation is down to the hard work and dedication of the whole team. They consistently strive to offer a personal and relaxed experience to each of our guests, returning and new. Our team works endlessly to ensure each guest has a memorable and bespoke experience. Three's A Crowd really is about welcoming our guests to our home".

Those sentiments were borne out by our visit. Subtlety was the name of the game and was certainly a pleasant way to spend a Saturday lunchtime.