As a fine dining with rooms destination, The General Tarleton (GT) didn’t live up to expectations.

It exceeded them.

The apogee of an outstanding and superlative all-round culinary experience and overnight stay.

How many times do you go to a restaurant and get niggled because one of the key elements of a fabulous trip out, either food, service, value for money or ambience, doesn’t quite match the standards of the other? Not the case with the GT. It ticked every box.

It is no wonder that guests driving between Scotland and the south of England and vice versa make a beeline for the General Tarleton; it’s only a short and convenient drive from the A1.

The GT is a hidden gem nestled in a North Yorkshire village, and if you blink, you have passed it by. If that is the case, I would urge, even compel, you to turn around and retrace your steps to enjoy a meal at an eating establishment where the team behind its success understands that its customers want a first-class gastronomic adventure.

So why the adulation? Where to begin? Let’s start with the highlights. The 25-year-old Varun Khanna is already at the top of his game, and for someone so young, it seems he has reached the zenith of his career, but I fear that is a bold statement as there is more excellence to come. He is someone who, I am sure, we will be seeing on programmes like the BBC’s Great British Menu in the future.

Head Chef, Varun has set about introducing a fresh and enticing menu that draws upon his Yorkshire roots, uses seasonal produce, and engages with local farmers and suppliers. He is very much about creating an experience that not only delights the palate but also champions the very best of Yorkshire and adds a touch of theatre. "It’s about being different. I don’t want to follow the crowd," he told me.

"I first fell in love with cooking; being able to enjoy fine food in a relaxed atmosphere with friends and family is one of life’s highlights for me." This he has successfully recreated.




The front of house, led by General Manager Silviu Hasna, is excellent, and the warmth of welcome at the hotel reception by Jane is superb. She greeted us with a friendly demeanour and an attention to detail that made an impression before showing us to the newly kitted-out rooms. Anyone who can remember the GT from years ago will be suitably impressed by the investment.

The team supporting Khanna and Hasna understands that the hospitality industry requires high standards. The young waiting team is impressive in the way they authentically deliver the chef’s daily briefing, coupled with a dash of friendly politeness.

As it was a beautiful summer’s evening, we took our drinks to the sun terrace, where families wanting a different dining experience took advantage of the late sun and ate al fresco. It successfully mixes traditional pub dining with contemporary gastropub dining.

Notably, there was an excellent selection of gins on offer, including a full range from Yorkshire brand Whitakers. Keeping up with the theme, Filey Bay, the first Yorkshire malt distilled in Hunmanby, was prominent, and I was pleased to see a Japanese spirit.

Moving into the tastefully decorated restaurant area with its stone walls, low beamed ceilings, contemporary art, and lovely laid-out tables with white cloths, the ambience reflected the warmth of the welcome and was punctuated with a buzz of chatter and appreciative comments from fellow diners who admiringly tucked into their culinary delights.

We opted for the Taste of Yorkshire’ Tasting menu (£70pp Wine Flight £65pp), although there is an à la carte menu as well as bar classics. I’m not always a fan, and having had a recent disappointing dining experience, I approached it with trepidation, a feeling that soon dissipated with the epicurean feast.

As we watched the setting sun out of the window, Silviu approached with a rather nice champagne, Testulat Brut Blanc de Noir, which was crisp with a delicate taste of green apple and delivered with those immortal words: "What’s life without bubbles?"

And so, it was the first of nine courses—three splendidly prepared canapés. If this was the benchmark for what was to follow, the bar had certainly been set high. A small glass of chorizo soup decorated with caramel popcorn, a small chicken liver parfait tart topped with caviar, and a taco with beef, avocado, and fetta.

The soup had a smooth richness to it; as can often be the case, chorizo can dominate, but here it was subtle, with a lingering taste and a depth of flavour that was far from overpowering. The caramel popcorn was a nice touch that worked both with flavour and texture. The small tart was made to precision crispness with ingredients that delicately complemented each other, as was also the case with the beef taco. A touch of spiciness to the beef, the coolness of the avocado, and a touch of fennel made for a delight where the palate did not have to overwork - the theme of the evening. Delicate subtlety was firmly in play.

How do chefs do it? The balance of flavours was perfect.




Presentation is everything in today’s world, and the GT has got it right as it has its branding; it is those little things that matter when you are spending money on an evening out. We could have easily been presented with a slice of artisan white and brown bread. However, Varun’s creativity in this village gastropub obviously means a lot. He has created his sourdough, where half is white with caraway seeds and the other half is brown with apricot and cardamon, served with Hesper beef fat butter and a beef crumb. It is mayonnaise beef dripping with a wonderful tang that is not too strong, egg yolks, and sherry vinegar to give it bite. Unsalted butter is also offered.

The next creation in this gourmet feast was salmon tartare with wasabi, soy Castleford rhubarb, and chilli. Served with a fresh Austrian Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner (2021), some citrus flavours accompany yet another intelligently curated and clever dish, and if you love salmon, this will be a hit. The squid ink mayo, the coriander and chilli teasing the taste senses, the rhubarb making a brief appearance, and it all topped off with a refined wasabi crisp.

Front of house was impeccable; careful observation was the name of the game. There was also a feeling that communication between the team members was tacitly monitored. There was no rushing on to the next course, even for those who had opted for the GT mainstays. There was enough time to savour the flavours and enjoy the wines which have been exquisitely paired by an experienced sommelier.

Cauliflower can be bland at the best of times, (well if I’m in the kitchen), but we were thankfully in the hands of this young chef who has taken the vegetable grown in North Yorkshire and roasted it with spices, mango, mint, and apple, offering it up with an Argentinian fruity and floral La Colonia, Torrontés (2021) with a lovely nose.

Varun was telling me after service that he has been influenced by his family’s roots in particular, taking inspiration from Delhi, and the Asian Broth Sauce was quite strong and beautifully flavourful, with a nice back of the throat kick to it but nothing to make you jump out of your seat. Thankfully, some of the bread had been left over, and dipping it in the sauce created yet another culinary sensation.

It was at this point that the couple sitting next to us, who had travelled over from Switzerland for a wedding, suddenly exclaimed, this is exceptional". So far, on my table, we could only concur with a Hear! Hear!

The magic was continuing with a hand-dived meaty scallop, which came with Red Roof tomatoes, shallot, and seaweed, paired with a French Domaine Hervé Azo, Chablis, 1er Cru Vau De Vey (2018). The tomato salsa was fresh, and the scallops supplied by Hodgson Fish cooked perfectly with excellent texture. There were other surprises with this dish, and it was one of those that you take your time over in order to savour the flavours.

After two fish courses came the lamb. Varun uses two superior meat suppliers: Sykes House Farm and R&J Yorkshire Finest. The wine was an elegant and distinctive French La Madone Fleurie, George Dubeouf, Gamau (2020). A small ball of cabbage leaves stuffed with lamb and deliciously sweet carrots that melt in the mouth marries well with the lamb and a pleasant broth. The waitress wisely suggested that we mix the flavours on the plate.

As the climax of the tasting menu drew nearer. What would follow?

Well, a scrumptious, lip-smacking version of Chef Varun Khanna’s signature pre-dessert Thai curry ice-cream, blood orange, and fennel meringue Apparently, every time this dish is removed from the menu, there is an understandable outcry. It was truly luscious and refreshing; I wanted to rise and give it a standing ovation; such was the impact on my senses.

If that wasn’t enough, a stunningly light pistachio sponge appeared with Garforth strawberries and meringue drizzled with basil oil, accompanied by an Italian Aquesi Piemonte Rosato Vino Spumante Brut.

And for those who like to end with a cheese course, there is a selection of five Yorkshire cheeses: Coverdale, Flatcapper Northern Brie (West Yorkshire), Wave, a mature cheddar from East Yorkshire, Lilibet Blue, and Duke of Wellington, both from West Yorkshire (£15 Surcharge), served with a selection of crackers and frozen grapes, and a selection of three Filey Bay Yorkshire Single Malts.

As the Swiss couple next to me who had enjoyed the Summer Vegetable Tart with hummus, chive, and garden herbs (£18) and the Salt Aged Longhorn Fillet of Steak with chips, chimichurri, marrow, and Béarnaise sauce (£36), tucked into their cheese dish felt the disappointment of not opting for the Thai Curry ice cream.




All of us looked over at another table thoroughly enjoying the Côte de Boeuf (for two to share), a 35-ounce Ribeye on the bone steak with triple-cooked chips, cauliflower cheese, onion rings, chimichurri, and Béarnaise sauce. There are a lot of delights on the menu.

Replete, we sat in the bar area with a postprandial brandy served with the same care and attention as witnessed throughout the evening.

After a comfortable night’s stay, breakfast included fresh juices and a chef’s special strawberry and apple smoothie. I opted for sumptuous truffle-infused scrambled eggs on sourdough with mushrooms.

The whole experience had been a pleasurable and wonderful indulgence, a kaleidoscope of colour and dazzling aromas.

For a special private dining event, a simple treat out, or, as it is fast becoming a place for small corporate events, the GT is your place.

Be quick, though I am sure that it will not be long before it establishes itself as a dining destination for foodies. There are only 80 covers.

Oh, did I mention Varun has worked at the two Michelin-starred restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham and the one Michelin-starred restaurant The Pipe and Glass in Beverley?

Last year saw the GT being awarded an AA Rosette for Culinary Excellence and in 2023 gained a Harden's Certificate of Achievement for High Quality Food.

I’m certain that with Varun’s ambitions there will be a host of different accolades to come.