lifestyle
From Village Pub To Culinary Destination: The White Swan Soars Again
In the picturesque village of Ampleforth, nestled among North Yorkshire's stunning Howardian Hills, something remarkable is happening. The White Swan, once a humble village pub, is spreading its wings to become one of the region's most exciting culinary destinations.
![(L-R) Jamie Buckley and Kieran Duffy]()
(L-R) Jamie Buckley and Kieran Duffy
Jamie Buckley and Kieran Duffy, the dynamic duo behind this transformation, have combined local knowledge with culinary expertise to breathe new life into this charming establishment. Their timing couldn't be better – with the British pub scene experiencing a renaissance and discerning diners increasingly willing to travel for exceptional food in beautiful settings.
"We're creating something special here," Buckley explains as we settle into the pub's welcoming interior, thoughtfully renovated to balance traditional charm with contemporary comfort. "This isn't just about serving good food – it's about creating an experience."
The partners' complementary backgrounds create a perfect synergy. They first met at Forage in York, where Buckley worked behind the bar before heading to New Zealand to expand his knowledge of wines and cocktails – a passion he speaks about with infectious enthusiasm. Meanwhile, Duffy honed his craft with French-style training, developing a flair for sauces and traditional techniques.
"I'm quite heavy on sauces, butter and cream from my training," Duffy explains, "of which we do a bit here but not too much. The important thing for both of us is that we just really enjoy good pub food."
The pub's expansive beer garden offers sweeping views across the valley that are nothing short of spectacular. On a clear day, you can see for miles across the undulating countryside that surrounds Ampleforth Abbey and its renowned school. It's the kind of vista that makes you pause mid-conversation, glass in hand, to simply take it all in.
But stunning views alone don't make a destination pub. The food needs to measure up, and with Michelin-trained Duffy at the helm in the kitchen, The White Swan certainly delivers. His commitment to quality ingredients is evident in every aspect of the menu. Duffy can often be spotted foraging for wild garlic in the picturesque landscape surrounding the pub, while trusted local suppliers like Sykes House Farm for meat and Hodgsons for fish provide the foundation for his seasonal creations.
"I've always been good at planning, writing menus and then implementing in the kitchen," he says, encouraging us to try the scallops – a favorite dish that remains on the menu year-round, though its garnish changes with the seasons.
What makes this venture particularly compelling is the authentic connection to place. Buckley's history with the pub has proven invaluable in winning over the locals, while general manager Tony is already planning exciting developments including a beer festival with barbecue and grill, plus talk of a pizza oven.
"For us, it's the next step," explains Buckley. "We've got the locals to come in, and now we're making our pub a destination place where we set ourselves apart. Ampleforth is such a lovely place to come."
The duo have set their sights high, aspiring to elevate The White Swan beyond the typical country pub experience. When they mention following in the footsteps of celebrated Yorkshire chefs like Tommy Banks or Andrew Pern, it doesn't feel like idle ambition.
Putting Excellence to the Test
Moving to our table, anticipation builds as we peruse the thoughtfully crafted menu. The pan-seared king scallops with pea velouté, crispy Parma ham, Granny Smith apple and watercress salad beckons irresistibly, alongside the salmon and Whitby crab cakes with mixed leaves, caper and lime dressing, fennel slaw and homemade tartare sauce.
![Seared King Scallops]()
Seared King Scallops
Both dishes exceed expectations magnificently. The scallops arrive perfectly caramelized, nestled in a pool of subtle pea velouté that whispers rather than shouts its presence. A hint of mint combines beautifully with the sweet shellfish, while the crispy Parma ham adds textural contrast that elevates the entire composition. The architecture of the dish is impeccable – every element purposeful and harmonious.
![Salmon and Whitby Crab cakes]()
Salmon and Whitby Crab cakes
The salmon and crab cakes prove equally impressive. Beautifully seasoned with light, golden breadcrumbs concealing a generous filling rich in flavour, they demonstrate Duffy's mastery of balance. The fennel slaw provides a superb textural dimension, its crisp freshness complementing the rich fish, while the homemade tartare sauce remains refreshingly subtle and well-judged. Tony, the general manager, ensures every detail is perfect – his attention to service matching the kitchen's precision.
For mains, the menu cleverly balances familiar pub classics with sophisticated twists. While Hunter's Chicken and bacon chop offer comfort with quirky additions, the chicken pie with confit leek, wild mushrooms, tarragon puff pastry lid, confit garlic and herb mash proves irresistible – though we diplomatically swap the tender stem broccoli for carrots. The alternative, pan-fried sea bream with mussels, chorizo, sauce vierge, white wine and confit potato, showcases Duffy's technical prowess.
![Chicken Pie]()
Chicken Pie
The chicken pie arrives as a thing of beauty. The buttery, gossamer-thin puff pastry crown yields to reveal wild mushrooms, leeks and tarragon singing in perfect harmony. The herb mash demonstrates exemplary seasoning – never heavy-handed, always balanced – while the al dente carrots provide divine textural contrast, their natural sweetness enhanced by a judicious sprinkle of salt. This is a dish that celebrates British comfort food while elevating it to new heights.
The sea bream offers a completely different but equally successful experience. The fish arrives perfectly cooked, its delicate flesh complemented by a tangy, sweet sauce vierge that hits every right note. Flavoursome tomatoes meld beautifully with other ingredients, while the chorizo – despite its powerful character – supplements rather than dominates the dish. Nothing in Duffy's cooking overwhelms; everything serves the greater good. The confit potato, now served as a crispy side dish with its sprinkling of salt, proves utterly irresistible.
![Sea Bream]()
Sea Bream
Rather full after such a fulsome and appetizing two courses, we choose to share the newly added Eton Mess – a decision we immediately regret. This should have been two portions, for this light, scrumptious dessert announces that summer has definitively arrived. The meringue achieves perfect lightness, the strawberry compote flows like silk, while macerated strawberries and whipped vanilla cream prove utterly irresistible. Paired with a glass of Carmes De Rieussec Sauternes, it provides the perfect conclusion to a perfect meal.
The wine list deserves special mention – a carefully curated selection that demonstrates Buckley's expertise. A fresh New Zealand Riesling complements the sea bream delightfully, while the Picpoul de Pinet from Villa des Croix proves an inspired match for the chicken pie. This is thoughtful wine selection that enhances rather than overshadows the food.
![Eton Mess]()
Eton Mess
A Destination Worth the Journey
This is exceptional pub food – elevated, refined, but never losing sight of its roots. Driving home across the wonderful North Yorkshire countryside, one can't help but reflect on The White Swan's achievement. It possesses all the right ingredients: stunning location, brilliant cuisine, and genuine hospitality.
For foodies seeking sophistication and those craving pub classics executed with flair, The White Swan delivers on every level. The combination of Duffy's culinary expertise, Buckley's front-of-house charm, and Tony's meticulous attention to detail creates something truly special.
This is a destination you should visit soon. The White Swan isn't just soaring – it's positively flying.
The White Swan is nestled in the heart of the village of Ampleforth, approximately 20 miles north of York and 4 miles south of the picturesque market town of Helmsley.The White Swan, East End, Ampleforth, North Yorkshire, YO62 4DA
Opening Times
Bar Opening Times
Monday - Sunday 12 - Late
Food Service Hours
Monday - Saturday 12 - 9
Sunday 12 - 8
There is a large car park at rear & delightful outdoor patio area!
01439 788239
info@whiteswanampleforth.com
https://www.thewhiteswan-ampleforth.co.uk/